Seowon Heritage Experience
Written by Fono Talo
‘Adventure Korea’ promises “interactive trips where foreigners can have a hands-on experience of Korea’s natural landscapes and cultural roots” (‘Our DMZ trip;’ Feb 9 2006) and this trip was no exception.
On a bright and sunny day we travelled to Gimje in Jellabuk-do to experience the cultural practices of a school teaching Confucian philosophies. As an extensive part of Korea’s cultural roots are entrenched in Confucius philosophies we were keen to check it out. Also the school was opening its doors for the first time to foreigners.
After dropping off the Temple stayers at the extensive and picturesque Geumsansa Temple grounds bus driver Kim navigated his way through farms and rice paddy fields to a more cosier and humble setting for our stay.
Amidst the dirt packed grounds was an ornate entranceway leading to two beautiful Korean-style buildings with intricately carved roofs and wide open decks. These buildings housed the Masters and their families.
The plain building housing the entranceway, was where we would spend most of our time, eating, sleeping and learning the ‘ways of the Confucianists’. Learning particularly that creature comforts only blockade our appreciation for life. We need to let go of the worldly distractions to realise ‘Who am I?’
We were first introduced to the man who would oversee our activities throughout the weekend. He taught us to bow Korean style for of the Master who expounded to us the virtues of acting like humans not animals, who are in the game to survive and never stop to smell the roses, well something like that.
After scanning the grounds and its attractions, we changed into our hanbok’s, a six-piece, white robe set made for men but worn by all us foreigners. The shirt was long sleeved and crossed at the front. The pants had a certain twist to it with its ties and ‘leg warmers’. It was breezy and quite comfortable if you managed to keep the ‘leg warmers’ up.
We also learnt other bows: the formal bow and an informal bow (for outside and confined spaces). Then if you’re lucky enough to be a woman you can learn one more bow.
We then ate a typical Korean dinner served to us by each other but in Confucius style we sat cross-legged at individual tables in silence like the gentry in the Jeosan Dynasty many moons ago.
Later we were taught more ‘ways of the Confucianists’ from the second Master particularly regarding 이 and 치 (though not to be confused with chi of the tai chi fame). I deduced 이 as nirvana or enlightenment and 치 as the purpose or being of every creature or thing in the world. The students study from their Masters to control their 치 and attempt to reach 이.
The next morning after the 4am wake up call, we had a meditation session which included brief sitting exercises like sweeping our teeth with our tongues and pounding our kidneys with our fists. On the surface the meditation was sitting cross-legged with straight backs and half-closed eyes for 30 minutes but on the inside it’s about contemplating ‘Who am I?’
Afterward we went outside for TaeGyek (the ancient form of TaeKwonDo) for exercise and lessons and we were treated to two awesome demonstrations by a student and the TaeGyek master. It was refreshing to be outside breathing and stretching while the sun was coming up.
Next up was calligraphy. Again it’s an activity pursued because of its calming and contemplative nature. There is an essence of yin and yang in the calligraphy process, combining a black solid and clear liquid to make ink, the flat clean paper and the thick brush making symbols, thin and thick strokes making words, you know. The outward appearance of calligraphy is sitting cross-legged, a straight back, the RIGHT arm at a 90 degree angle, elbows out and only the fingertips holding the top of the brush but again the inner self is contemplating ‘Who am I?’
Our last activity was watching a test examination in progress. The male and female students each wearing their style hanboks’ and reciting memorised Confucius texts. These adult students are practicing oriental medicine specialists and they kindly treated some of the group to free acupuncture and massage sessions which was great because we all love a good freebie.
This trip was fun in a reflective, chill-out, once in a blue moon kind of way. The people were good to us, they fed us well, and the chores were only setting and clearing meals. We got some insight into old school Korean philosophy and had hands-on experience at calligraphy, taegyek and meditating all while wearing hanboks (though keeping those things clean is a mission). It’s highly recommended especially since there aren’t many other places you can experience it or if you have a hard time remembering your name.
